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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.